Hungary – A Country of Unique Wines
By Hrayr Berberoglu
Prior to 1990, only a few Soviet elitists had access to fine Hungarian wines. Now, 13 years after “liberation”
from the old communist order, Hungarian wine quality has improved immensely. Hardworking entrepreneurs
are achieving great results now, with optimal results in a decade.
How is this happening? Two major factors. Since the fall of the socialism, members of small family owned
wineries are travelling abroad to learn modern wine making techniques, have undertaken ambitious replanting
programs and are investing in modern equipment. The second is outside investment. Western wineries are
purchasing vineyards and are injecting millions to rejuvenate the industry.
Hungary’s winemaking history spans over ten centuries, to the founding of the kingdom on the eve of
Christmas 1000 AD. Historians have determined that among the different Turkic and Caucasian tribes, it was
the Magyars who brought with them viti/viniculture to the Carpathian basin. The fledgling industry soon
emerged as an important contributor to the economy, which was enhanced with the arrival of German,
Walloon, and Italian settlers.
By the beginning of the 16th century, Hungary ranked amongst the largest wine-exporting countries of Central
Europe. Unfortunately, a period of decline soon ensued, when the Ottoman army defeated the Hungarians at
the battle of Mohacs in 1526, thereby ushering a period of domination that lasted over a century and a half.
The subsequent eviction of the Ottomans by the Austrian army in 1686 left Hungary once again under foreign
culture and economy. Although ruled by the Austrian crown, Swabians, Romans, Slovaks and Slavs were
allowed to immigrate, which ultimately helped to improve winemaking.
The Terrible Twosome
The good times would last until the later half of the 19th Century, when the arrival of Phylloxera served a
crippling blow to the industry. By 1891, Hungary, once an exporter of wine, was forced to import to satisfy
internal demand.
Soviet rule also had devastating effects. The entire system encouraged quantity over quality, including the
flagship wines of Tokaji. Collectivization of vineyards into huge State Farms accounted for 15 percent, cooperatives
received 60 percent and the remaining 25 percent was left to individuals. State owned
organizations likeHungarovin, Egervin, and Pannonvin looked after internal distribution, while Monimpex was
responsible for exports.
Hungary’s climate is typical for Central European/Continental; meaning that winters are predictably cold and
summers hot. Annual sunshine is never less than 2000 hours, ensuring proper ripening. In Tokaji, where
Hungary’s wine reputation is built, the ideal conditions of fog and sunshine exist to produce noble rot (next
month’s newsletter will feature a story on the fabled region of Tokaji).
Presently there are 22 wine regions recognized to produce superior quality. Of those, the most important are
Badascon, Balaton-Fured and Csopak around Lake Balaton; Mor, Sopron and Samlo, all west of Budapest;
and Eger, Miskolc and Tokaj northeast of the capital.
The traditional red grape varieties of the country are Kadarka, Kekoporto, Kékfrankos, Nagyburgundi, and
Zweigelt. For white wines, growers prefer Keknyelu, Sarfeher, Juhfark, Ezerjo, Furmint, Harslelvelu, Rajnai
Rizling (Rhineriesling), Olasz Rizling (Welschriesling), Leanyka (a k a Feteaska in Romania), Zoldveltlini
(Gruener Veltliner), Cirfandler (Zierfandler). Gewurztraminer, Moscat-Ottonel, Muller-Thurgau, Szurkebarat
(Pinot Gris), Serge Muscotaly (Muscat de Lunel), and Muskotaly (Muscat a Petits Grains).
So far, Hungarian producers have refrained from planting world varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet and
Pinot Noir on a large scale. As a rule, the experimental plots that do exist are generally blended with local
grapes as a means to improve quality, although a few modern wineries have started to market varietal wines
using the famous grape varieties. During a recent tasting, Szekszardi Bikaver Merlot 2000 and Turul Cuvee
(Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend) from the Vesztergombi winery showed potential, although a bit rough due
to youthfulness.
Another way Hungarians are starting to make better wines and receive recognition is by lowering yields in
regards to their native and non native grapes. Considering the old-style, light and oxidized wines that are still
being produced by the co-operatives, these new wines are an immense improvement.
Kopar Cuvee 1999 from Gere (a small winery) was fruity, well structured, with chocolaty hints and smoke.
Hungary’s white wines Badasconyi Szurkebarat, Balatonfured, and Rajnai Rizling, from around Lake
Balaton, stand out. Some Chardonnays are also planted with satisfactory results.
Hungary’s winemakers such as Sarolta Bardos, Jozsef Bock, Tibor Gal, Attila Gere, Zoltan Polgar, and
Vilmos Thummerer have been recognized through reputable international awards.
So far, exports to North America have been slow and in very limited qualities due to high demand in
Germany, Russia and Poland. We can expect to see better quality Hungarian wines on our shores in the
near future. For more information contact www.anonymuswines.com or frida.emri@anonymuswines.com