Dr. Hoffer's Travel Site This site was last updated 09/13/12 |
SCAND 2003 #32 Karasjok:
Enter Lapland
Thursday, July 3, 2003
The scenery was quite
spectacular
as we headed past Honningsv�g on our way south to Olderfjord. You
have to look at the map to see the spectacular trip we
are taking here.
We are on an island called Mager�ya and to head south we have to cross a large body of water. We will do this by going through a 4.25 mile tunnel under the Arctic Sea (above right.)
We left at 2:45 PM and Marcia drove the 65 miles to the little stopover town of Olderfjord. On the route we had to come to a screeching stop as a large buck reindeer lumbered onto the highway followed by an entire herd (below left.) We had to wait until the �tail� buck was the last one over.
She then continued on until we arrived in Russenes at
4:00 where we filled the tank and Marcia had lunch in the little traveler�s caf�
of the Olderfjord
Hotel [, +47-7-846-3711.] She had fried chicken with salad while I had a
plain coffee
and shopped through the store and bought two reindeer skins that we used to sit
on for the rest of the trip. I then drove the next leg of 85 miles south to our
destination of Karasjok [Car-rahs-chock]. While driving, I spotted the Politi
(police)
radaring me and I slowed down rapidly. I must have been successful, since they
didn�t come after me. I sure don�t need another police stop on our last day in
Norway as I did when we entered the country. The DUI laws are now that the fine is 10% of your annual income and
they publiah in the newspapers a list of those who have paid the highest fines.
We arrived in Karasjok at 6:20 and it took a little time to find this half-baked hotel I had booked since all the others were full. The Kroa Hotel [, +47-9-923-4655] is a little out of town and there was no one at the reception desk. I found a note that said to call a cell phone which I did. The guy answered with poor English and said he would be there soon. After a while Clemet showed up in his pickup truck and checked us in. Our room was in the building across the road and it turned out to be quite nice in a rural sort of way. By 7:30 I went out for my run and ran through the town and then to the Sapmi Center.
Sapmi or Sami is
the new name the Lapps have chosen for themselves. Like everyone, they didn�t like the name Lapp they
had been
given. Lappland or Sapmi starts just north of here and covers large
areas of Norway, Sweden and Finland. The culture is one of living off of
reindeer herds which roam free but they know which ones belong to
whom. They
brand them, but it�s still a mystery how they keep track.
Karasjok is their
capitol
and 80% of the people who live here are of Sami origin. We are still in
the Norwegian county of Finnmark. The city is called Kar�sjohka by the Sami.
The extremes of temperature here go from a hot of 90� F to a cold of -60.5� F.
I don�t want to be here when it�s that cold. The Sapmi Center (or De Samiske
Samlinger, +47-7-846-9950) is a tourist center museum to show the history and
lifestyle of the Sami peoples.
After
finishing my run, I wended my way through all the
exhibits of mound huts, reindeer, tents and even the special Sami restaurant
built inside a hill (left.) They had central pit fires with seats surrounding them. I
talked to one of the waitresses and she told me that the chef is the same one
for the big Rico Hotel right next door and the menu was also the same. The
restaurant was really just a kitschy place for the tourists and was about to
close. I got back to the room
and told Marcia about this and she said she preferred to eat at
the hotel.
After I changed, we drove over to the Rico Hotel [, +47-]
and had a very interesting meal in their formal dining room. The room was
covered with male and female dress of the Sami people
(above.) We shared a bottle of
Spanish Rioja wine and I also had two beers before doing that. For starters, we
each had a trio of smoked reindeer, trout and
Arctic roe. I had something very
unusual; reindeer heart stew which was good but I wouldn�t routinely order it. Then we each had an order of Arctic trout and I had a side of potatoes au
gratin. For dessert, Marcia had cloudberry soup and for dessert I had ice cream with
berries. It was all interesting and fairly good. After dinner the whole place
was very quiet so we headed back to the hotel. I worked on the Oslo photos, so
you can see that I am beginning to get behind by about 2 weeks. I finally went
to bed at 3:30 AM.
Kenneth J. Hoffer, MD
Karasjok, Norway
Sent 7-20-04
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